Category: Expat

Sunday In Paris: Museums, Towers, Hotel Rooms

“A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life.”
― Thomas Jefferson

On Sunday we woke up, packed our gear up in our hotel in Monmarte and hopped on the metro to meet up at Katie and Adam’s hotel…which was right next door to the Louvre! They were staying in the Le Meurice, a gorgeous 5-star establishment on the Rue de Rivoli across the street from the Tuileries gardens with amazing views that I took pictures of obnoxiously from their balcony windows on multiple occasions. Admittedly our own view wasn’t terrible, between the two of us, I think it’s safe to say we can brag a little about our locations (though Katie wins, hands down. Her suite was easily the most sumptuous, gorgeous one I’ve ever seen in my life and I would have snapped pictures of it if it wouldn’t have been so terribly weird to do so)!
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Just around the corner from our hotel…
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Just…outside the window of Katie’s hotel. I’m throwing in the towel here.

The British Museum may hold my heart, but the Louvre is still my favorite place on earth. You could spend days wandering its corridors – believe me, I’ve done it. But since this was a flying visit, Jeff and I planned our attack carefully. We took in the magnificent Greek and Roman statues (with a dose of Renaissance Italian thrown in for good measure) before heading to the Spanish, French, and Dutch masters.
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Later we reconvened for lunch at a lovely bistro before Jeff and I headed off to do the obligatory ogling of the Eiffel Tower and eating of crepes before taking a final turn around the city in the Spring sun.
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Finally, we all ended up back at Katie and Adam’s hotel suite. The boys relaxed a bit with watching basketball – which I will say nothing against, after all we were on vacation – and Katie and I went out for a pastry and chocolate run at the famous Angelina just down the Rue de Rivoli. We returned laden with delicious things and then all talked for hours until Jeff and I hopped back on the Metro (after one last photo opp out of Katie and Adam’s window) to head to the Gare du Nord and thence back to London.
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Never fear, the Paris posts are far from over. Come back this weekend after the Friday Links posts for tales of more crepes, celebrity sightings, and misadventures in map reading.

A Day At the Palace (Or All Gold Err’thang: A History Lesson)

“Marie-Anoinette: This is ridiculous.
Comtesse de Noailles: This, Madame, is Versailles.”
– Marie Antoinette, 2006

The palace of Versailles is just a hop, skip, and a half hour train ride outside of central Paris in a way that belies the income, cultural, and geographic divides of the 18th century it represents. In the 1700s it was a mere 12 miles outside of the city but an entire world away.
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The private domains of the last three kings of France, the brain child of Louis XIV who styled himself the Sun King and developed a court structure and architecture that literally revolved around himself, and no small contributor to the eventual Revolution itself… Versailles is just a bit much. In that glorious Rococo sort of way. Perhaps it’s just me, but wandering through the gilt laden and marbled inlaid, well, everything really, I can’t help looking around and thinking to myself, “Yeah, I would absolutely have revolted too.”
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Versailles was a gigantic feat of social engineering as well as building design. As chief gravitational force of his own private solar system, Louis XIV literally required his nobles to up sticks from their estates to come and wait on him personally hand and foot 24/7/365. Instead of living on and working their properties, managing their own affairs, or contributing in substantial ways to the French economy, the nobility lived almost entirely off of incomes supplied by the King’s government and existed in a perfumed, periwig-ed cocoon of privilege.
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“Come now,” I imagine Louis XIV said of an earlier incarnation of this room, “there is simply not enough gilt and cloth of gold here. What am I, a peasant? MOAR GOLD!”

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The Queen’s, er, equally restrained and tasteful bedroom…

Meanwhile, outside of the (literally) golden gates, wars, economic collapses, and famine were doing their level best to flatten the commoners – who of course paid for all the upkeep since the nobility and clergy were exempted from taxes.
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The justifiably famous Hall of Mirrors.

Our trip to Versailles started off a bit sodden as the morning was gray, rainy, and quite chilly. But by the time we made it through the palace and out into the gardens the sun had burst out to warm us all up. We trekked to the Grand and Petit Trianon minor residences and meandered through the false hamlet built so that Queen Marie Antoinette could play at being a peasant maid (complete with Sevres china milk buckets of course), and then back along the grand canal where crew teams and romantic pairs were rowing on the once royal waters.
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The gorgeous colonnade from the Grand Trianon.

The last time I was at Versailles was about 8 years ago (*clutches self a little to realize that*) when my mother and I came here on a girls only vacation, so it was great to get an updated view of the site. a number of restoration projects are underway and new rooms have been made available to the public since my last visit. It makes for an excellent day trip, but do book tickets in advance if you can – especially if you go in the high tourist season! Katie, our expert traveler, booked tickets for all four of us in advance and we got to swan past the throngs of other tourists waiting in line.
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It costs under 10 Euros for two people to get to the Versailles Rive Gauche station on the RER-C line from the Notre Dame Metro stop, and the palace is a 5 to 10 minute’s walk away.

There are simply too many stunning photos for one blog post so keep an eye on my Instagram feed for more snapshots of our meanderings through Versailles this week.

First Night in Paris

“But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right and wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight.”
― Ernest Hemingway

Friday afternoon I met up with Jeff at King’s Cross St Pancras station after a week apart, him in Peterborough, myself in London, and ready for a weekend away. We’ve been in Britain for over six months now, but this is the first travel we’ve been able to manage due to work commitments. Jeff had also never been to Paris before, which was something that obviously needed to be rectified at the first available opportunity.

With a duffel bag between the two of us and a camera in tow, we hopped on the Eurostar straight to Paris. One or two indulgent selfies (in which we both proved out singular lack of ability to time our blinks and smiles in sync) and two hours later we were in la villelumière herself!
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Thanks to the modern delight that is 24hour concierge services, we hopped off again at the Gare du Nord and made straight for the Île Saint-Louis, the second of the two natural islands in the Seine river that make up the historical heart of the city, to meet up with Katie and Adam at their recommended restaurant, Le Caveau de L’Isle (make sure to check out the gallery on the site!) where we had the first of a series of amazing meals and snacks.
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Katie is a natural travel planner (as well as working with hotels professionally) and she had combed friends, insiders, and blogs for the best local recommendations. None of which disappointed, for either location or food quality! Le Caveau’s main eating area is small, candlelit, and bedecked with exposed timber beams that date back goodness knows how long. The chimney is from the 17th century, the hidden vaults are at least as old (the name itself means the “vault” or “cave” of the island). Above the beam nearest the wall hung a Middle Eastern dagger that I hope held some kind of historical or cultural significance, but I was too stuffed with a delicious cut of beef to ask.

The dinner options at Caveau are incredibly affordable! Like many other restaurants they have a handful of “set” options that you can choose from to customize a meal in addition to the shifting menu. We each plunked for a two course option and indulged in both good food and great conversation.
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After a rich meal (and fistfuls of glorious French bread), we set out for a long walk along the river and through the sights until late at night when we finally stumbled off to our respective hotels at a deeply undignified hour.

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Which, as it happened rather set the tone for the whole trip! The whole weekend was a dense rush of adventure and not enough sleep from start to finish, from which I am still recovering two days later…and I couldn’t be happier about it. Long before we planned on Paris, Katie and Adam have become two of our favorite people to hang out with so getting to meet up with such fabulous friends in a fabulous city made for a wonderful weekend.

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Padlocks, memorials to love and friendship have spread far beyond the original bridge they bedecked to at least three that we saw. Touristy, yes, but you can’t fault a testament to love in a place like Paris! It’s hard to beat Paris during the day, but Paris at night might give it a run for its money.

Bright and early the next morning we shot off to Versailles…

London Snapshot (Apres Paris)

“London has the trick of making its past, its long indelible past, always a part of its present.”
― Anna Quindlen, Imagined London: A Tour of the World’s Greatest Fictional City
Paris posts are coming, ducklings, but it’s been an exhilarating whirlwind of a weekend and a jam packed full Monday getting back into the swing of things. Ergo like the traveling tease I am, you have a wait another day to see the evidence of our adventures. In the meantime, I bring you this peace offering: a first of the morning view from Craven Street just off Trafalgar Square and glancing down at the Thames.

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Generator London Relaunch

“See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories. Ask for no guarantees, ask for no security.”
― Ray Bradbury

On Thursday I was invited to attend the relaunch party of Generator London hostel. That’s right, I was on the guestlist. I’ve arrived, kittens.

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And in case you think this sounds a bit of a strange launch, let me tell you, this place knows how to throw a party! Open bars, signature cocktails, and some seriously impressive taco canapes. DJs, live bands, mingling, oh my!
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That might be the most British concoction I’ve ever seen in my life. As for the food!
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My favorite was the chicken, I wasn’t even subtle about trailing a server at one point to get at them.

The relaunch follows a year of redesign work to upgrade the property and better manage their room space – no small feat. I’ve been through a number of hostels and this is by far the nicest I’ve seen in recent memory.
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The design feel is supposed to be easy, fun, casual, urban, and the tiniest bit silly. Mission accomplished. The floor levels are all inspired by the highest of British character inspiration, Ali G you’ll notice has the place of honor. Each floor contained original spray painted artwork of phrases, figures, and allusions, and inspiration from each of the floor themes and I had quite a bit of fun wandering through the halls to find them.
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The Bond floor was probably my favorite, because who doesn’t want to be greeted by a gun-and-martini-wielding stick figure, but minions know there was one floor I had to visit…
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I found a PR person who was willing to take me on a tour of the upgrades and give me the details. This place boasts over 800 beds, and it’s not even their largest property!
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Her name is Antonia and she’s a doll! We chatted about travel and she told me about the other Generator properties in Europe, including an upgrade in Paris that will house 1000 beds. My mind can’t even consider the laundry requirements. She even let me peek into the new rooms and snap a few shots.
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This is one of about twenty two person rooms, most contain four beds divided between two bunks. Each bed has a metal and padlocked storage bin to store beneath it large enough to fit an American sized suitcase (saying something…countrymen, we do not acquit ourselves well when it comes to “packing light” by European standards), and the walls are painted in geometric patterns of bright custard yellow, turquoise, charcoal and cheerful red. Like most hostels, the bathrooms and showers are communal; unlike most hostels I’ve been in, there are multiple on every floor!

The property itself used to be a police building (I just can’t get away from police stations, I must accept my fate!) and so the facade has been preserved to reflect it’s history, but I think they’ve done a good job of upgrading the space. Aside from the night I spent in a haunted castle turned hotel in Ireland, this might be the most fun I’ve ever had in a hostel. Speaking of…
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I was down my plus one, since Jeff was in Peterborough, but I popped into the photobooth anyway to grab a souvenir for my beloved corkboard. Add it to the tacos and it was a great night all around, I’m so glad Generator invited me for my first real [re]launch party. I’m quite official these days, ducklings.

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Friday Links (Nevermind, I’m In Paris Edition)

“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.”
― Oscar Wilde

What I week! On the one hand, there’s been large degrees of stress and late nights, and doing my best to develop new schedules and positive habits to get me through what promises to be three crazy months. I’ve also have a few doses of emotional wringing and exhaustion and one or two genuinely dark patches due to some cultural issues.

But on the other, I started some volunteer work at the Benjamin Franklin House Museum which I’m outrageously happy about, I’m working on some hugely exciting freelance projects launching next month, plus as many of you read this we’re on a train to Paris for the weekend to play with Katie and Adam, I believe that means that in spite of the occasional harumph, everything’s coming up Milhouse!

I’ll be back next week with updates from our Parisian jaunt. Plus on Sunday check back for a tale of tacos and my first real invitation to a notable shindig. In the mean time, here are your links and let me know what you’re up to this weekend in the comments. And do, for the sake of the minion coterie, link to anything that we need to know about!

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All will become clear on Sunday. I’d try to be cryptic, but it’s hard with that graphic.

Irreverent, yes. Pearl-clutchers avoid. But I’m surprised to admit that Putin wins this catwalk.

Big news from the realm of theoretical physics this week. The math is beyond my understanding, but I’ve been hooked on studying more about the history, science, and theories of spacetime and universal origins after watching the series Fabric of the Cosmos a few years ago. It’s on youtube, start here.

Books that end in the middle of a

If you’re in need of a rather judgey (but sometimes wholly accurate) t-shirt to wear out and about, may I recommend this one?

Speaking of t-shirts, this article about the rise of Fast Fashion – something I’ve personally done my level best to swear off entirely since reading a book on the subject a couple of years ago – is well worth the read. h/t Xarissa.

The headline of the week might sound like an existential crisis but it isn’t.

Oddly haunting photos of an abandoned cinema in the most unexpected place.

Do you need some affirmations in your life, care of a late 80’s cartoon? The internet is here to oblige you. (Also, when Jeff showed this to me, he told me the story of how he had a He-Man sword in childhood and how he used to hold it aloft and yell, “I have the power!” while running about having imaginary adventures. He followed up with, “Which, in retrospect probably wasn’t a great thing for a little while boy to be saying.”)

And if you wrong us, do we not revenge?

Nearly two decades out of childhood and I still love dinosaurs. Also, “chicken from hell” needs to be a band name.

Friend and friend of the blog, journalist Caitlin Kelly is on a rather amazing assignment in Nicaragua at the moment and her posts on her trips really are wonderful – go see what’s she’s doing!

Vintage Shopping in Cheshire Street

“In the fashion industry, everything goes retro except the prices.”
― Criss Jami

One of my finds during the other weekend’s adventurous rambles was Cheshire Street in Whitechapel. Like other areas that have drawn specific immigrant groups in the past, this part of town has become the home base for a lot of the Bengladeshi immigrants coming to London over the last few decades, and many of the street signs reflect this. Which is initially what caught my eye.

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Turning the corner to glance down I spotted a rack or two of  vintage wares on the pavement so I started down to have a look. And then I realized that shop after shop after shop, all the way down the street, was dedicated to vintage clothing, accessories, textiles, and lifestyle items. I spent at least an hour just going through them and doing some fantasy shopping for myself and friends.

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The shops specialize quite nicely, some deal with everyday clothing and some deal strictly in couture and designer wear which was fun to just rifle through and fantasize over. I was tempted by a cloche style hat from the 1930s but really couldn’t justify it – especially when it felt so warm and bright out. Oh right, and poverty. That too.

This rack is entirely filled with homemade, totally unique simple kitchen aprons that I know for a fact that some of The Girls would simply die over – Amy and Jess, behold your probable future Christmas/birthday present!

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The owners were all incredibly friendly. Where some of the designers at markets, understandably, don’t want you to photograph their creations, the vintage shop owners let me snap shots with abandon!

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Vintage is not everyone’s thing, and admittedly it’s only mine to a degree (as much as I commit myself to buying quality second hand, some decades’ silhouettes are simply not for me!), but it is a lot of fun to explore and look through. And occasionally you do find a steal which does make the search worth it. Anyone willing for a full on raid of this street on any given weekend, hit me up, I’ll gladly show you my new favorite haunts!

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Palate Cleanser – Cute Animals! The Internets Demand Them!

“Don’t raise your voice, improve your argument.”
― Ret. Archbishop Desmond Tutu

I like impromptu Incendiary Mondays, I think I’ll keep them around – if nothing else, I’m delighted that the comments I get for them are so nuanced and insightful! I actively like being disagreed with by intelligent people who make their case well and force me to consider and defend my own. And since that’s what makes up the minion coterie, you brilliant, beautiful bunch, I’ll take advantage. Don’t expect to see it every week, but it’ll crop up from time to time. And by all means, let me know if you want to share your own opinions!

However, I think that anytime I do hurl such things into your midst, I’ll make sure that good, breach-closing things follow. My latest tour of London’s urban farm and agriculture scene appeared here last week, but if the internet has taught us anything it’s that we all love pictures of animals. So, to cleanse the argumentative palate, here are the adorable denizens of Vauxhall City Farm. Let brotherly love and harmony be restored. I brought bunnies.

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Read more about it in the link, but it’s an interesting place with a fascinating history!
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This thing was massive, regular sized rabbit in mid left for scale.
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I fell rather in love with this duck. He had quite a waddle, er, strut.
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Goats and sheep abounded, some of which I’d seen on a previous adventure to the Southbank Centre.
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We can agree this is adorable, yes?
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A rather imperious tom who demanded homage (in the form of feed) from visitors).
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Has the cuteness healed us yet?!
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I save my greatest weapon for last. A pony sticking its tongue out for you. Let’s ignore whatever on earth the other one is doing…

There, balance is restored. What shall we argue about next?

(PS – the whole series can be found here if you’re interested. If not, disregard!)

This Past Sunday, Pt. 2: Every Other Market Imaginable

“Your own exploration therefore has to be personalized; you’re doing it for yourself, increasing your own store of particular knowledge, walking your own eccentric version of the city. ”
― Geoff Nicholson, The Lost Art of Walking

I initially went to Spitalfields thinking it was just one new area to explore for a morning before finding something else to do. I’m thrilled to admit how wrong I was.
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It turned out to be a several hour wander through East London since the Spitalfields Market, it turns out, rather bled into the Brick Lane Market. Which in turn fed into some other markets, which sort of carried over into bric-a-brac stalls lining whole streets, which wended their way through impromptu sales that merchants and shop owners threw up to take advantage of the crowds.
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In the the end I basically threaded my way through official and unofficial markets – selling everything from some of the choicest garments on the planet to piles of rusting bike parts – all the way from Spitalfields to Columbia Road before finally hopping on the Overground and heading home late in the afternoon.
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The smells of every kind of cuisine and street food blended into live music from buskers and performers. There were stunning and interesting things to explore around every corner. Even most grumpy of winter-weary Brits were awash with goodwill everywhere I went.
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It was the perfect first weekend of Spring.
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