Tag: London

The Way We Live Now (or more precisely, where)

“London has the trick of making its past, its long indelible past, always a part of its present. And for that reason it will always have meaning for the future, because of all it can teach about disaster, survival, and redemption. It is all there in the streets.”
― Anna Quindlen, Imagined London: A Tour of the World’s Greatest Fictional City

Ducklings and gentle-kittens, let me make you welcome to Bermondsey.

It’s on the south side of the Thames, a place that has been through the centuries a holy area, a posh area, and a slum area. A large abbey once stood here with royal ties back to the conquest. Apparently Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine held a Christmas court here (presumably more amiable than the one portrayed in The Lion in Winter…), and Elizabeth Woodville retired there along with Henry VII’s blessing after he married her daughter. As usually happened to these presumably impressive buildings, Henry VIII dissolved the Abbey and gave the land to his friend. The Stuarts poshed it up after the Great Fire, but it sank into decay. In the 19th century, the docks and industrialization made things a bit grim.

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This church, built in the 17th century even though a church has been recorded on this sight for well over a thousand years, is the parish church of St. Mary Magdalen.

Charles Dickens described the area near here thusly,  “… crazy wooden galleries common to the backs of half a dozen houses, with holes from which to look upon the slime beneath; windows, broken and patched, with poles thrust out, on which to dry the linen that is never there; rooms so small, so filthy, so confined, that the air would seem to be too tainted even for the dirt and squalor which they shelter; wooden chambers thrusting themselves out above the mud and threatening to fall into it — as some have done; dirt-besmeared walls and decaying foundations, every repulsive lineament of poverty, every loathsome indication of filth, rot, and garbage…”

Quality!

Luckily these days Bermondsey is undergoing a nice little resurgence and we’re really enjoying living here. Huge masses of it was bombed and rebuilt after WWII so it’s relatively recent (compared to a surprising amount of London). Our plumbing is only from the last century instead of the one before – this is cause for rejoicing, trust me!

We’re in Southwark, one of the oldest parts of London – the area from which Chaucer’s pilgrims departed for Canterbury is just a Tube station away, Shakespeare’s Globe theatre is in the same direction. To the east lies the dock where the Mayflower departed for Southampton to meet up with its dour and disapproving paying passengers heading for the New World. The dock where they hanged pirates in the 18th century is nearby. There are excellent restaurants, Bermondsey’s famous antique market, and of course the river.

We also live a 15-20’s minute’s leisurely stroll from Tower Bridge.

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I think you’ll excuse me, minions, if I say that I’m vastly contended and downright giddy about this in a lot of ways. Not too bad, huh!

*all images original to Small Dog Syndrome

Friday Links

“I’ve been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I find something fresh in it every day.”
– Walter Besant

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Snapped last week wandering

This weekend Jeff is going golfing with some of the other people from his intake group (I’d tease him about becoming a cliche so soon, but the guy loves golf, hasn’t gone in a couple of months now, and is seriously excited about it so all corporate jokes are off) and I’m going to do some research for a freelance project. I am also going to do some more wandering. There is simply nothing to beat wandering in London.

Here are your links, kittens, and tell me what you’re up to!

This artist creates indoor clouds, and I think the results are oddly beautiful. (h/t Savvy)

It’s the morbid streak in me but I have a weird fascination with heiresses of the reclusive variety.

Hm. Some of these I like, others I think are ridiculous, and still others I want to slap across the face.

Has the week left you grumpy? Here, I have just the thing.

A beautiful take on van Gogh’s work.

When some people (an increasing number in fact from my community, but that’s a different post) ask me why I’m involved with some of the specific initiatives I am, usually involving womens’ rights, I’m always tempted to ask, “Do you read/watch the news?”

Excellent checklist. (We’ve got job hunting on the brain over here.)

Sarah, one of the most lovely and darling friends I made a university, is celebrating her (highly successful) blog’s 2 year anniversary this week. In addition to restaurant level quality food, she shares her travels as well – definitely check out her latest jaunt to Greece! It’s giving me outrageous schemes!

To say that I want this is vast understatement. I covet it in an almost unhealthy way.

Don’t knock assistants!

*image original to Small Dog Syndrome

Vive la Liberte!

“Give me Liberty or give me Death!”
– Patrick Henry

Sunday was a cosy, grey, and rainy day that Jeff and I spent mostly indoors in comfy clothes so when Monday rolled around I felt a little stir crazy. Our internet was (for real this time!) hooked up first thing in the morning, Jeff had a meeting at work, and I was caught up to where I wanted to be with my work. So, after glancing around the flat and then outside at the mostly nonthreatening weather, I grabbed an umbrella and headed straight for the West End.

I was feeling a long stroll so I walked all over Covent Garden, before heading down through Westminster, and straight into Liberty.

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Liberty is a gorgeous…calling it a department store almost seems an insult even though that’s what it is. It’s one of the old-school stores of the late 19th century where different items are housed in entirely separate rooms, the stationary does not mingle with the jewelry and the products are sourced directly from their manufacturers, eclectic or high end. There is wonderful mix of both designer works and artisanal items as well.

The store is renowned for its print fabrics, which originally were sourced from the Orient during the Art Nouveau period, but that they still make and house in their charmingly named Haberdashery room. The famous building itself is 1920’s Tudor revival with wooden floors and panels, stained glass panes in the windows, and working fireplaces.

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As it happened, I got inside just in time because it started hailing furiously! Luckily I was protected from the downpour and able to get a head start on planning the upcoming birthday and holidays present campaign. And, I admit, doing some fantasy Wish Listing of my own.

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The top floor is an anthropologist’s dream! African tribal goods, Persian marble relief carvings, statues, fountains, antiques, Morrocan tiles, you name it! This room would likely give my Dad, a collector of rugs and carpets from the Middle and Far East, heart failure with joy. Though admittedly the prices might just give him heart failure period.

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Jeff caught up with me after his work meeting and as he’d finished his home study assignments for the day as well, and as they weather had cleared up, we wandered for the rest of the evening. Down through Regent Street and Oxford Street, and eventually all the way down to the Houses of Parliament before finally meandering home. I’d originally intended just an hour or two out and about, in the end I spent over six out just walking through London.

*Pardon the cellphone quality photos, if I’d know where I was going I would have grabbed my camera. But adventurous rambles can’t really be planned, you know!

Next to Godliness

Nature abhors a vacuum.  And so do I.
~Anne Gibbons

I may be the furthest thing from a domestic goddess, but dear me we all have our homey habits, and mine is cleaning with a Swiffer. Which, it turns out, is ungettable in UK stores, so I turned to the global marketplace that is Amazon.co.uk to aid me.

I’ve always loved those cheerful, “Your Amazon order has shipped” emails in the US, but I have to admit I adore the much more charming and grammatically correct UK email declaring that my Amazon order “has been dispatched.”

A Burger Interlude

“It is the Americans who have managed to crown minced beef as hamburger, and to send it round the world so that even the fussy French have taken to le boeuf hache, le hambourgaire.”
– Julia Child

Aspiring Kennedy (a lovely blog written by a lovely expat) featured a rather nice looking burger joint on her blog the other day that immediately sang its siren song to both Jeff and my souls. So in need of lunch the other day, and also in need of a run to that great British establishment John Lewis, we decided to use our Eat Out Once A Week card and check it out.

BRGR.CO is a small restaurant off Oxford Street (which was absolutely crammed with tourists and pre-Fashion Week craziness), darkly furnished with touches of whimsy (a cow’s head in particular, personalized by a local artist is mounted on the wall for a while before being auctioned off for charity and replaced with a new one), and the meat is gorgeous.

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The people watching was pretty decent as well.

Seriously, in a city stuffed full of hilariously overpriced but underwhelming burgers, this place was a delight. I got the most modest burger at £5 and it was the juiciest, most delicious piece of beef I’ve had in a long time. I can’t wait for a date night when I splurge and get the twice as expensive Tender Blend!

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Jeff got “chili fries” and I got mine smothered in Parmesan and truffle oil.

Beware, the £5 is just to start and anything besides your usual vegetable toppings cost additionally, but again for London that’s pretty good. I also have a desire to try their version of Afternoon Tea (which comes with slider burgers, mini fries, and mini deserts) but I think I’ll wait for friends to come into town for something like that. The plebeian basic burger will suit me fine in the meantime, the Small Dog team heartily recommends it.

Friday Links (Settling In Edition)

“Out of clutter, find simplicity.”
― Albert Einstein

The shopping, it must be noted, did provide a great deal of humor as well.
The shopping, it must be noted, did provide a great deal of humor as well.

It’s been a bit touch and go this week as I’ve dived back into freelancing with the temporary internet we’re using until our real connection is installed (hopefully) on Monday. Additionally, running errands in a city relying on public transport take considerably longer time to accomplish. There is no popping into a car and running to a store and back in 20 minutes here, you must budget up to two hours to complete such an assignment to properly factor in walking, Tube delays, bus route changes due to unforeseen circumstances, etc. You get your checklist done, but it takes much longer. Throw in the job application process, with all its attendant hopes, fears, and emotional strung-out-ed-ness, and you’ll understand that it’s been a really fun, productive, but rather tiring week.

On the other hand, we are now the proud owners of a microwave and proper duvet, which more or less rounds off the final necessary purchases required for the home. The last time we set up a household, Jeff and I were getting married and were the recipients of a lot of generosity in the guise of both hands on assistance and wedding gifts. We thought we were appropriately grateful at the time, but of course both hindsight and setting things up in another country have taught us we were wrong. We have never been cheap about wedding presents for our friends and family, but we’re going to try and pay it forward even more in the future.

Here are your links, ducklings, and let me know what you’re up to in the comments!

Thoughts? I know many of you here entertain, and I confess I’ve always had an idea of doing so when I became a Real Live Grownup, but is it a dying art?

British weathers doomsayers are abundant and between April and August, every time there is even the tiniest cloudburst, hordes of them will band together miserably and declare, “Well, looks as if Summer is officially over.” They are seldom correct and Summer manages to make it through its designated seasons after all. But I admit a the tips few leaves around here are starting to yellow. Stateside minions are encouraged to enjoy the foliage changing locally.

I do consider myself a connoisseur and a purist in a lot of ways cookie related, but it was kind of interesting to read a food blogger take on the many variations of the chocolate chip cookie.

One of the big stories in London the other week was…this headline.

Fascinating gallery on age an beauty!

We have much to thank this man for.

Tumblr find of the week – hereditary privilege can really take it out of you.

It’s a big weekend here in London, London Fashion Week kicks off (I may wander downtown to see if I can spot any of the action and/or Beautiful People), the London Book Fair is going down, and Jeff and I are going to a show on Saturday.

To Market To Market

“The earth laughs in flowers.”
― Ralph Waldo Emerson

London is absolutely crammed full of markets, and they are one of the major reasons the city retains so much of its history and character so well. Anyone can go to the store and by cheap bread in a plastic bag. But how much better is it (both in personal experience and to keep the arts involved alive) is it to go to the local market and for the same price – and often cheaper! – buy a loaf of freshly baked bread made from someone’s family recipe at a market that has been operating on that site since the Middle Ages?

And it isn’t just for food, there are markets for vintage goods, antiques, textiles, homeopathic creations, confections, odds and ends, baubles, homemade or craft items, and just about anything else under the sun. The city is a smorgasbord of Really Cool Stuff!

One of its market gems is the Columbia Road Flower Market, open only on Sundays. The name is a bit of a misnomer because you can also buy stationary, antiques, and artisan goods along the shops that line the road, but the street itself is utterly taken over by vegetation on Sundays and it’s worth the visit. Europeans have a love of fresh flowers that I don’t see a lot of Americans sharing. A once or twice weekly purchase of some blooms to brighten one’s house is simply built into most people’s shopping lists.

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The word “flower” is also slightly misleading. Yes you can get cut flowers here, by the absolute barrel full, but you can also get potted plants, ferns, succulents, shrubs, and whole trees as well. We admired a palm tree with a trunk the width of a tire, but moved along. I’m currently flirting shamelessly with the idea of bringing a small lemon tree indoors to shrink our already small flat (inspiration here), but on Sunday I settled for a pretty orchid to bring something living into the place. Our flat, in true British fashion, was painted before we moved in – absolutely every surface was whitewashed to a blinding degree and I’m trying to think up ways to make it feel less like a hospital!

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There is every species of flower imaginable there, and it’s giving me grand ideas for a balcony garden, but in the meantime we just admired the sights, sounds, and glorious smells.

Back in the 19th century, the area of the market had turned into a rather bad slum and a philanthropist bought the area and established a market that didn’t last too long, but trading in the area persisted and today Columbia Road is a popular and well-beloved stop for weekend shopping. You can always tell who has been by the streams of people wandering towards the Overground station with arms full of brown-paper wrapped blooms.

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Four Years (Officially)

“The secret of a happy marriage is finding the right person. You know they’re right if you love to be with them all the time.”
– Julia Child

Our anniversary is the first of July, but for the last couple of years we’ve delayed doing anything about it to celebrate it in London. My godparents started shuffling holidays around a few years ago to accommodate work schedules and coordinate the commitments of multiple families. At first it struck me as a bit strange to celebrate major holidays on random days, but I think there’s a lot of value to this method. As long as your celebrating what you want to celebrate with the people you want to celebrate with, I think wiggle room is a pretty good idea.

Don’t take this philosophy too far, though. People who put up Christmas decorations around Halloween still aggravate me to no end.

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To celebrate went to the British Museum and took in their exhibition on Pompeii and Herculaneum. Most of the collection has never been outside of Italy before and it was stunning. It was set up in the dimensions and shape of a typical Roman household, showcasing the artifacts found in each of the type of rooms presented. The exhibition included many of the most famous mosaic fragments and frescoes from the site, as well as some of the plaster casts of Mount Vesuvius’ victims.  Alas that photography wasn’t allowed! That sound you hear is my mother’s teeth grinding in jealousy!

After the museum we headed to Kopapa, our favorite fusion restaurant, and indulged!

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The windows were thrown open, the weather has been absolutely wonderful for the past fortnight, and we people watched outside the Cambridge Theatre (currently showing Matilda).

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May I recommend the elderflower presse for a gorgeous summer drink? Soda and cordial, absolutely loaded with crushed lime and mint.

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Delightful menu with just the correct degree of weirdness.

And then we wandered around Covent Garden and introduced Jeff to Ben’s Cookies – since due to some shocking oversight he had failed to make their acquaintance when he was previously in London.

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Friday Links (London Return Edition)

“I like the spirit of this great London which I feel around me. Who but a coward would pass his whole life in hamlets; and for ever abandon his faculties to the eating rust of obscurity?”
― Charlotte Brontë

It’s been a hectic couple of weeks, but we’re pretty sure we’ve taken care of all that can possibly be preplanned. Now it’s just time to roll with the punches a bit. Jeff starts work on Monday, I’ve got to wait around a few more days until our internet gets set up to get back to freelancing but I’ve already started looking for a new job. It’s equal parts exciting and scary. Here are your links, kittens, thanks for sticking around while we’ve hopped about getting settled!

Now that summer is winding to a close and people are desperate to get their last hurrahs in

Huh! I admit, a bit of a paradigm shift.

Anyone hungry?

You make the call.

I find this picture of Queen Elizabeth  and Princess Anne quite cute.

Excellent gallery! Also is it just me, or do retro photos always show our not too distant ancestors had really good skin? What gives?

In case you missed it the other week. Well done, Sister Suffragette!

You may have my undivided loyalty, but a wedding romper? J. Crew, you are drunk.

Do you know your Hitchcock? By the by, if you’re in London in the near future, see the stage production of The 39 Steps – hysterically funny and very vaudeville-esque, in the best way possible.

I think the fashion and modeling industries are oddly interesting, and Coco Rocha a particularly interesting figure in them.

I now have a lovely park a mere two minutes from my new building, well lit, plenty of highly visible and safe jogging paths, an Edwardian bandstand, lot of dogs, and gorgeous old trees. Excuses to not work out = effectively nill.

Though most accounts (and not a few ancient travel guides) have his corpse lovingly displayed in Alexandria, good luck to the team searching this site anyway. Though frankly my money’s on a carpark in Leicester – tons of long lost interesting people of history are turning up in those!

Need some Notting Hill Carnival in your life? Bon appetit!

An answer to this summer’s top question

An excellent post.

30, not bad!

Tumblr find of the week.

Seriously, this made me snort laughing such that I nearly choked on a Cadbury’s nibble – a charming new take on my well beloved chocolate that is delicious, but also dangerous in moments of comedy. “How’s a brother gonna keep it real on the street with all these ethical and metaphysical uncertainties, my man?”

Friday Links XXXVIII ( Oh To Be In England Edition – Mostly)

“London is a roost for every bird.”
Benjamin Disraeli

Never has the phrase, “Lie back and think of England,” been invoked less perversely and with more fervor.

Jupiter Ammon, kittens, this week!  They either need to replace our missing officer or pay me more because this is getting ridiculous.  I have about three dozen things to do in the next couple of hours, so here are your links and let’s all pretend we’re already in London – it’s seriously the only thing that’s gotten me through the last few days!

I love the London transit system.  Sure the buses are hit and miss, and the chances of being shoved up in a stranger’s unwashed armpit during busy hours are fairly high, but you can get anywhere on it.  I can’t wait.  In the meantime, here’s a bit of humor to get me through.

Sad.

The National Trust is a wonderful organization, maintaining properties and houses, estates, lands, gardens, and parks.  Their website also occasionally contains treats like this  to get us through until we can hike the trails.

It’s so true, and it’s occasionally deeply funny.  You can spot the tourists trying to put on a British accent from a mile away in London, but apparently it’s happening on this side of the Atlantic as well.

Telling the truth when no one wants to hear it.  (Dad, and the anatomically squeamish, skip this one.)

The Daily Mail being “helpful:” look nice, but not too nice.  Thanks for that.

For such a delicious pastry, it does look pretty forlorn.

Interesting project!

Nothing is new, and the Egyptians always got there first.

I enjoy following politics, I consider myself a political person and highly opinionated, but even I am getting exhausted with this election cycle.  Let’s liven things up a bit, shall we?  People can be silly.

The weekly sheep.  Awww…