The Way We Live Now (or more precisely, where)

“London has the trick of making its past, its long indelible past, always a part of its present. And for that reason it will always have meaning for the future, because of all it can teach about disaster, survival, and redemption. It is all there in the streets.”
― Anna Quindlen, Imagined London: A Tour of the World’s Greatest Fictional City

Ducklings and gentle-kittens, let me make you welcome to Bermondsey.

It’s on the south side of the Thames, a place that has been through the centuries a holy area, a posh area, and a slum area. A large abbey once stood here with royal ties back to the conquest. Apparently Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine held a Christmas court here (presumably more amiable than the one portrayed in The Lion in Winter…), and Elizabeth Woodville retired there along with Henry VII’s blessing after he married her daughter. As usually happened to these presumably impressive buildings, Henry VIII dissolved the Abbey and gave the land to his friend. The Stuarts poshed it up after the Great Fire, but it sank into decay. In the 19th century, the docks and industrialization made things a bit grim.

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This church, built in the 17th century even though a church has been recorded on this sight for well over a thousand years, is the parish church of St. Mary Magdalen.

Charles Dickens described the area near here thusly,  “… crazy wooden galleries common to the backs of half a dozen houses, with holes from which to look upon the slime beneath; windows, broken and patched, with poles thrust out, on which to dry the linen that is never there; rooms so small, so filthy, so confined, that the air would seem to be too tainted even for the dirt and squalor which they shelter; wooden chambers thrusting themselves out above the mud and threatening to fall into it — as some have done; dirt-besmeared walls and decaying foundations, every repulsive lineament of poverty, every loathsome indication of filth, rot, and garbage…”

Quality!

Luckily these days Bermondsey is undergoing a nice little resurgence and we’re really enjoying living here. Huge masses of it was bombed and rebuilt after WWII so it’s relatively recent (compared to a surprising amount of London). Our plumbing is only from the last century instead of the one before – this is cause for rejoicing, trust me!

We’re in Southwark, one of the oldest parts of London – the area from which Chaucer’s pilgrims departed for Canterbury is just a Tube station away, Shakespeare’s Globe theatre is in the same direction. To the east lies the dock where the Mayflower departed for Southampton to meet up with its dour and disapproving paying passengers heading for the New World. The dock where they hanged pirates in the 18th century is nearby. There are excellent restaurants, Bermondsey’s famous antique market, and of course the river.

We also live a 15-20’s minute’s leisurely stroll from Tower Bridge.

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I think you’ll excuse me, minions, if I say that I’m vastly contended and downright giddy about this in a lot of ways. Not too bad, huh!

*all images original to Small Dog Syndrome

Skinpiration. Please?

“Il faut souffrir pour être belle.”
-Unknown

Got my first, “Congratulations, you live in a city again!” major zit. Alas! Seriously, this sucker took up some major real estate on my chin. Such that even Jeff, normally a paragon of husbandly delicacy on such matters, was led to exclaim, “What’s that on your face?!” Several of its brethren are not so discreetly advancing as well.

Humid climates after a desert have conspired to wreak havoc on my skin, and my one facial after neglecting them for so long can only do so much. So city dwelling minions advise please. What weapons do I need in a city skincare arsenal?

Friday Links

“I’ve been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I find something fresh in it every day.”
– Walter Besant

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Snapped last week wandering

This weekend Jeff is going golfing with some of the other people from his intake group (I’d tease him about becoming a cliche so soon, but the guy loves golf, hasn’t gone in a couple of months now, and is seriously excited about it so all corporate jokes are off) and I’m going to do some research for a freelance project. I am also going to do some more wandering. There is simply nothing to beat wandering in London.

Here are your links, kittens, and tell me what you’re up to!

This artist creates indoor clouds, and I think the results are oddly beautiful. (h/t Savvy)

It’s the morbid streak in me but I have a weird fascination with heiresses of the reclusive variety.

Hm. Some of these I like, others I think are ridiculous, and still others I want to slap across the face.

Has the week left you grumpy? Here, I have just the thing.

A beautiful take on van Gogh’s work.

When some people (an increasing number in fact from my community, but that’s a different post) ask me why I’m involved with some of the specific initiatives I am, usually involving womens’ rights, I’m always tempted to ask, “Do you read/watch the news?”

Excellent checklist. (We’ve got job hunting on the brain over here.)

Sarah, one of the most lovely and darling friends I made a university, is celebrating her (highly successful) blog’s 2 year anniversary this week. In addition to restaurant level quality food, she shares her travels as well – definitely check out her latest jaunt to Greece! It’s giving me outrageous schemes!

To say that I want this is vast understatement. I covet it in an almost unhealthy way.

Don’t knock assistants!

*image original to Small Dog Syndrome

Vive la Liberte!

“Give me Liberty or give me Death!”
– Patrick Henry

Sunday was a cosy, grey, and rainy day that Jeff and I spent mostly indoors in comfy clothes so when Monday rolled around I felt a little stir crazy. Our internet was (for real this time!) hooked up first thing in the morning, Jeff had a meeting at work, and I was caught up to where I wanted to be with my work. So, after glancing around the flat and then outside at the mostly nonthreatening weather, I grabbed an umbrella and headed straight for the West End.

I was feeling a long stroll so I walked all over Covent Garden, before heading down through Westminster, and straight into Liberty.

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Liberty is a gorgeous…calling it a department store almost seems an insult even though that’s what it is. It’s one of the old-school stores of the late 19th century where different items are housed in entirely separate rooms, the stationary does not mingle with the jewelry and the products are sourced directly from their manufacturers, eclectic or high end. There is wonderful mix of both designer works and artisanal items as well.

The store is renowned for its print fabrics, which originally were sourced from the Orient during the Art Nouveau period, but that they still make and house in their charmingly named Haberdashery room. The famous building itself is 1920’s Tudor revival with wooden floors and panels, stained glass panes in the windows, and working fireplaces.

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As it happened, I got inside just in time because it started hailing furiously! Luckily I was protected from the downpour and able to get a head start on planning the upcoming birthday and holidays present campaign. And, I admit, doing some fantasy Wish Listing of my own.

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The top floor is an anthropologist’s dream! African tribal goods, Persian marble relief carvings, statues, fountains, antiques, Morrocan tiles, you name it! This room would likely give my Dad, a collector of rugs and carpets from the Middle and Far East, heart failure with joy. Though admittedly the prices might just give him heart failure period.

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Jeff caught up with me after his work meeting and as he’d finished his home study assignments for the day as well, and as they weather had cleared up, we wandered for the rest of the evening. Down through Regent Street and Oxford Street, and eventually all the way down to the Houses of Parliament before finally meandering home. I’d originally intended just an hour or two out and about, in the end I spent over six out just walking through London.

*Pardon the cellphone quality photos, if I’d know where I was going I would have grabbed my camera. But adventurous rambles can’t really be planned, you know!

Next to Godliness

Nature abhors a vacuum.  And so do I.
~Anne Gibbons

I may be the furthest thing from a domestic goddess, but dear me we all have our homey habits, and mine is cleaning with a Swiffer. Which, it turns out, is ungettable in UK stores, so I turned to the global marketplace that is Amazon.co.uk to aid me.

I’ve always loved those cheerful, “Your Amazon order has shipped” emails in the US, but I have to admit I adore the much more charming and grammatically correct UK email declaring that my Amazon order “has been dispatched.”

A Burger Interlude

“It is the Americans who have managed to crown minced beef as hamburger, and to send it round the world so that even the fussy French have taken to le boeuf hache, le hambourgaire.”
– Julia Child

Aspiring Kennedy (a lovely blog written by a lovely expat) featured a rather nice looking burger joint on her blog the other day that immediately sang its siren song to both Jeff and my souls. So in need of lunch the other day, and also in need of a run to that great British establishment John Lewis, we decided to use our Eat Out Once A Week card and check it out.

BRGR.CO is a small restaurant off Oxford Street (which was absolutely crammed with tourists and pre-Fashion Week craziness), darkly furnished with touches of whimsy (a cow’s head in particular, personalized by a local artist is mounted on the wall for a while before being auctioned off for charity and replaced with a new one), and the meat is gorgeous.

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The people watching was pretty decent as well.

Seriously, in a city stuffed full of hilariously overpriced but underwhelming burgers, this place was a delight. I got the most modest burger at £5 and it was the juiciest, most delicious piece of beef I’ve had in a long time. I can’t wait for a date night when I splurge and get the twice as expensive Tender Blend!

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Jeff got “chili fries” and I got mine smothered in Parmesan and truffle oil.

Beware, the £5 is just to start and anything besides your usual vegetable toppings cost additionally, but again for London that’s pretty good. I also have a desire to try their version of Afternoon Tea (which comes with slider burgers, mini fries, and mini deserts) but I think I’ll wait for friends to come into town for something like that. The plebeian basic burger will suit me fine in the meantime, the Small Dog team heartily recommends it.

Friday Links (Settling In Edition)

“Out of clutter, find simplicity.”
― Albert Einstein

The shopping, it must be noted, did provide a great deal of humor as well.
The shopping, it must be noted, did provide a great deal of humor as well.

It’s been a bit touch and go this week as I’ve dived back into freelancing with the temporary internet we’re using until our real connection is installed (hopefully) on Monday. Additionally, running errands in a city relying on public transport take considerably longer time to accomplish. There is no popping into a car and running to a store and back in 20 minutes here, you must budget up to two hours to complete such an assignment to properly factor in walking, Tube delays, bus route changes due to unforeseen circumstances, etc. You get your checklist done, but it takes much longer. Throw in the job application process, with all its attendant hopes, fears, and emotional strung-out-ed-ness, and you’ll understand that it’s been a really fun, productive, but rather tiring week.

On the other hand, we are now the proud owners of a microwave and proper duvet, which more or less rounds off the final necessary purchases required for the home. The last time we set up a household, Jeff and I were getting married and were the recipients of a lot of generosity in the guise of both hands on assistance and wedding gifts. We thought we were appropriately grateful at the time, but of course both hindsight and setting things up in another country have taught us we were wrong. We have never been cheap about wedding presents for our friends and family, but we’re going to try and pay it forward even more in the future.

Here are your links, ducklings, and let me know what you’re up to in the comments!

Thoughts? I know many of you here entertain, and I confess I’ve always had an idea of doing so when I became a Real Live Grownup, but is it a dying art?

British weathers doomsayers are abundant and between April and August, every time there is even the tiniest cloudburst, hordes of them will band together miserably and declare, “Well, looks as if Summer is officially over.” They are seldom correct and Summer manages to make it through its designated seasons after all. But I admit a the tips few leaves around here are starting to yellow. Stateside minions are encouraged to enjoy the foliage changing locally.

I do consider myself a connoisseur and a purist in a lot of ways cookie related, but it was kind of interesting to read a food blogger take on the many variations of the chocolate chip cookie.

One of the big stories in London the other week was…this headline.

Fascinating gallery on age an beauty!

We have much to thank this man for.

Tumblr find of the week – hereditary privilege can really take it out of you.

It’s a big weekend here in London, London Fashion Week kicks off (I may wander downtown to see if I can spot any of the action and/or Beautiful People), the London Book Fair is going down, and Jeff and I are going to a show on Saturday.

To Market To Market

“The earth laughs in flowers.”
― Ralph Waldo Emerson

London is absolutely crammed full of markets, and they are one of the major reasons the city retains so much of its history and character so well. Anyone can go to the store and by cheap bread in a plastic bag. But how much better is it (both in personal experience and to keep the arts involved alive) is it to go to the local market and for the same price – and often cheaper! – buy a loaf of freshly baked bread made from someone’s family recipe at a market that has been operating on that site since the Middle Ages?

And it isn’t just for food, there are markets for vintage goods, antiques, textiles, homeopathic creations, confections, odds and ends, baubles, homemade or craft items, and just about anything else under the sun. The city is a smorgasbord of Really Cool Stuff!

One of its market gems is the Columbia Road Flower Market, open only on Sundays. The name is a bit of a misnomer because you can also buy stationary, antiques, and artisan goods along the shops that line the road, but the street itself is utterly taken over by vegetation on Sundays and it’s worth the visit. Europeans have a love of fresh flowers that I don’t see a lot of Americans sharing. A once or twice weekly purchase of some blooms to brighten one’s house is simply built into most people’s shopping lists.

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The word “flower” is also slightly misleading. Yes you can get cut flowers here, by the absolute barrel full, but you can also get potted plants, ferns, succulents, shrubs, and whole trees as well. We admired a palm tree with a trunk the width of a tire, but moved along. I’m currently flirting shamelessly with the idea of bringing a small lemon tree indoors to shrink our already small flat (inspiration here), but on Sunday I settled for a pretty orchid to bring something living into the place. Our flat, in true British fashion, was painted before we moved in – absolutely every surface was whitewashed to a blinding degree and I’m trying to think up ways to make it feel less like a hospital!

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There is every species of flower imaginable there, and it’s giving me grand ideas for a balcony garden, but in the meantime we just admired the sights, sounds, and glorious smells.

Back in the 19th century, the area of the market had turned into a rather bad slum and a philanthropist bought the area and established a market that didn’t last too long, but trading in the area persisted and today Columbia Road is a popular and well-beloved stop for weekend shopping. You can always tell who has been by the streams of people wandering towards the Overground station with arms full of brown-paper wrapped blooms.

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Friday Links (London and New Media Edition)

“I think there is a world market for maybe five computers.”
– Thomas Watson (1914 – 1993), president of IBM from 1952 to 1971 [said in 1943]

We’ve officially hit our first bump in moving to London. And it’s so miniscule compared to the heaps of ease and good fortune that it’s almost not worth getting ourselves worked up over. But it is an inconvenience. Our internet, which was supposed to be set up yesterday has been set back a week and a half because the wiring/cables/whatever in our flat are so out of date as to be unusable and have to be updated. The service man actually winced while testing them.

It’s not a welcome diagnosis for my freelancing and job hunting, but we’ve found a rather delightful solution. The British Museum has a charming new membership option that includes access to exhibitions, lectures, and other events for free, a private member’s room, excellent food options, and most critically free wifi. On weekdays I’ll now trot down to Russel Square (fantasizing about a smaller and more manageable laptop) and set myself up at a work table.  It’s not nearly on par with internet at home, but I have to admit it will do just fine in the mean time, thank you very much!

We’re also signing up for phone plans tomorrow and getting new phones. Apparently (like unto the cables in our flat) ours are so hilariously out of date that as to be unhelpful for a certain number of tasks and jobs. And the bossier of my mates (you know who you are!) are urging me to get an Instagram account to share London photos. Cast your votes, kittens, is another social media account worth it?

Here are your links, minions, though it’s just a short list this week. Thanks for sticking around while we’ve hopped continents. Now please excuse while I catch up on several weeks’ worth of emails and updates…

Tumblr find of the week.

Last week Buckingham Palace celebrated a pretty big birthday.

The Twitter and Facebook exaltation of my friends and acquaintances alerts me to the fact that the famed Starbucks pumpkin spice latte is apparently back. I don’t drink coffee, but I can appreciate the enthusiasm. With that in mind, here’s some related historical trivia on the coffee cup’s comrade in arms.

Ikea being the patron deity of cheap city dwellers (also the location of not a few trips last week), made me think this a fitting tribute.

I WANT TO GO TO THERE.

We’re not the only ones to jump an ocean recently, one of my good friends Caitlin has as well. She and her husband Terry (one of Jeff’s university flatmates) ended up in China about the same time we flew into London. She’s been blogging on culture shock and discoveries in her new city, as well as her work on her first major novel, and as always she’s riotously funny!

Second Tumblr find of the week, h/t to Scarlett! Having lived in Belgium, I would like to assure all and sundry that I found most of the houses charming in a quintessential Northern European fashion. However, there is a great deal of this sort of thing as well, it must be admitted. (Language warning for pearl clutchers.)

Hm. And now I’m pondering my desire for a new phone…I’m not at all convinced this is hyperbole.