Tag: Travel

Rio Grande By Way of the Thames

“You can all go to hell; I will go to Texas”
― David Crockett

Explaining the US can be tricky, especially since the truth is that in spite of our best endeavors, we really are in many ways a “nation” of separate countries. The word “state” was precisely chosen as a replacement for “colony” when our upstart ancestors declared independence because it meant a sole, sovereign entity.

Which makes for fascinating political philosophy, I hear you ask, but what’s the point? Well, having lived there once (and I admit it was largely a negative experience, though I wouldn’t mind trying out Austin since I’ve heard good things), my family and I sometimes joke that Texas at its heart really is a separate country altogether. London recently confirmed my suspicions by way of a chalk artist in Trafalgar Square.

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Wait for it…
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Confirmed!

Unless of course they’ve actually gone through with the threats of some of their most disgruntled citizens and seceded lately? Have I missed an announcement?

“I Heard the Bells on Christmas Day…”

“…Their old, familiar carols play,
And wild and sweet
The words repeat
Of peace on earth, good-will to men!”
― Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

Christmas day was an adventure!

We nearly got stuck in an elevator. We live on the top floor of our building and have access to two stairwells/elevators, one of which is slightly more convenient but is the one (naturally!) that has the most problems. Lately the door has been sticking a bit on the ground floor. One morning, feeling particularly grumpy, I made Jeff burst out laughing when the door only semi opened before it got stuck and I yanked it open the rest of the way with a curse.

Christmas morning we needed to get a move on since all public transportation was closed for the day, which meant we had to walk four miles and cross the river to get to Westminster Abbey, where we had reserved places for the morning service. We made a calculated decision to take the slightly sketch elevator because it put us closer to the tube station without having to circumnavigate the building. Which of course meant that this was the morning that the door slid open a crack on the ground floor… and refused to budge further. With a combined sigh, “Of course,” Jeff set his shoulder to it and I got on my knees to pull from the bottom. It took several minutes and many attempts, but eventually we freed ourselves. Teamwork.

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The walk to the Abbey was gorgeous. There were almost no people about…except that I crossed paths with a history heroine. Dr. Lucy Worsley, the Chief Curator of Historic Royal Palaces was walking along the Thames with her husband. I nearly tripped over my own boots! On another day I might have accosted her, but since she’s written publicly about not liking being approached by strangers and fans – and in the spirit of the day, namely not being a jerk – I restrained myself to a bright smile and fangirling to Jeff in private.

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Neither of us are High Anglican (Jeff rather cheekily rephrased the Nicene Creed to himself during its recitation), but I still really enjoyed the service and the setting – Westminster Abbey being one of the coolest places for a British History nerd to be. Do you know how many interesting dead people hang out there?!

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When we emerged, the bells were ringing. We walked the four miles home again, made our traditional Christmas morning breakfast (at nearly two in the afternoon), talked to family via Skype, and watched holiday movie favorites. Not a bad Christmas on our own, I think!

At Least It Happened In 2013…

“Even though sugar was very expensive, people consumed it till their teeth turned black, and if their teeth didn’t turn black naturally, they blackened them artificially to show how wealthy and marvelously self-indulgent they were.”
― Bill Bryson, At Home: A Short History of Private Life

I’m not good at trends, kittens. I enjoy watching other people follow most of them, and enjoy my friends who are better able to keep up with them than I, but I’m perfectly happy to take my time in jumping on bandwagons. This goes for food, music, fashion, and most things in general. It has saved me a lot of bother, money, and time waiting through an initial craze period to gauge genuine interest.

I just barely got around to reading Eat, Pray, Love, which I found deep and poignant in many places, very highlight-able, and self-indulgent in the extreme. (I’ve also just barely discovered Goodreads reviews, or rather how to write them. I’m probably having too much fun.) I still like darker and more color saturated, nail polish colors even though pastels have been all the rage. Most films I’m willing to wait to rent rather than see in theatres – though of course there are exceptions. I still haven’t read The Hunger Games trilogy. Et cetera.

But on a recent Saturday I finally got to try a cronut (after the minor culinary frenzy earlier this year). And I’ve got to say, those suckers are seriously tasty! I’m wouldn’t queue up for them in NYC for hours at a time, but now that the furor has died down and they’re actually findable in London…I think I shall indulge, very occasionally.

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Perhaps I should have jumped on this particular bandwagon sooner?

How about you, ducklings? Are you a trend observer or follower, and of what sorts?

Expat Living: Food

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.”
― Marcel Proust

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The view from Jeff’s office. Pretty much makes up for most inconveniences.

Alright, kittens! We’ve been well and truly settled for a good three months now, so it’s time to give you some updates about life in London! Expat life is a bit different from my previous international adventures growing up (less built in services and communities than in the government or military), but since both Jeff and I have lived internationally before, I do think the culture shock has been pretty minimal.

However, it has taken a couple of months for everything to settle into a routine. We’re mostly there now, so expect more posts about British living in the future. A friend recently asked me about the things I liked best and least about living in London, and I thought I’d make a regular little series on it here.

So, one of the things that I love. The food. Yes, really.

Britain once had a thriving food culture, which reached its zenith under those hedonists the Edwardians before being effectively nixed in the Great War. Food has almost always had a service component to it, and ideas about services changed and the skills associated with it got a lot rarer after a conflict in which so many workers died. The tight rationing of WWII finished the job and for most of the last century Britain has…well, I’d say enjoyed but the truth is more like dealt with…a pretty low culinary reputation.

Luckily, the times they have a changed! The days of rationing are far behind us and avocados have now been comfortable ensconced in the diet for over a decade. There’s plenty of canned beans and stale bread still lurking in desperate corners but finding good, high quality, delicious food is wonderfully easy and does not require nearly as much effort as it once did. The sheer variety of cuisines available is almost dizzying! Goodness knows bland food still exists in abundance in this country (the medieval rule of boiling everything is still in effect in some places) but in London there is frankly no excuse not to find excellent food!

We’ve eaten several varieties of Indian subcontinent food, Asian authentic, European fusion, and more street food that I care to count and almost all of it has been good. There are markets everywhere with an excellent variety goods. Between them, bodegas, and grocery stores, I’ve found I can have a nicely varied diet for  what it cost me to shop and eat in the states. The key is paying attention and shopping smart. Eating out is expensive, but we solve that by limiting ourselves and thinking of it as a treat rather than a regular event.

Food is decently priced in Britain, somethings cost more and some things cost less than what I am used to, though with a couple years of bad harvests prices are expected to rise. Britain also used to grow or produce most of its own food and now imports a significantly higher percentage so the state of agriculture is in flux these days. There’s a strong history of farm production but farmers and growers are still dealing with the repercussions of industrialization, a history of laws that favored the gentry and aristocracy over the working classes, and the same financial problems that farmers stateside deal with.

Any other expats out there with food culture experience they’d like to share? Or indeed anybody who has ever moved at all!

PS – my friend Heidi is in the middle of conquering Denmark and she’s written about food and its attendant ups and downs lately as well.

Treasure; A Philosphy

“There’s all the difference in the world between treasure and money.”
– Roderick Townley, The Great Good Thing

My favorite of the concepts my family raised us with is the idea of treasure.  I used it in a post title the other day cavalierly and only later realized that how unique and loaded a word it is to me.  The initial definition would be almost identical to a dictionary’s, if I’m honest, but there’s a rich history behind that word’s use in my family.

I don’t know exactly how or when this word entered clan lexicon in the capacity we use it, but to our tribe it has a very specific yet not easily explained translation.  It’s complicated because to us, treasure can be anything you value.  Anything at all.  Often it’s associated with travel or adventure, something picked up in an exotic locale, but it can just as easily be something bland that still manages to inspire the bearer to see the extraordinary.

Throughout my childhood the term applied equally to a dried seahorse purchased on a Venetian canal, a handful of pretty pebbles, the wooden dinosaur skeleton models my father would purchase and then assemble with me after returning from long trips, a Turkish wedding belt woven from goat fur that (as I recall, which to be fair could be a totally warped memory) was given to me by a shop owner in Turkey for no reason at all, a particularly straight stick (useful for walking, poking, and play fighting in the backyard), a piece of partially knapped flint discarded by some ancient people and found by me in a dried up riverbed hunting on a Texas ranch that belonged to a friend of my dad’s, the small sweater my mother made for my teddy bear when her fur began rubbing off from too much love, some coins that became obsolete when the Euro was adopted, and so on. Treasure was everywhere growing up.

There were and are some rules.  It can’t be kitsch, or stuff for stuff’s sake – it has to be meaningful and important for more than just taking up shelf space.  A little statuette of Michelangelo’s David sold in a tourist trap in Italy is memorabilia; a reproduction of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus bought from a slightly seedy looking street salesman literally off of a dusty Florentine cobblestone way is treasure.

It doesn’t have to be impulse, you can have an idea of what you’re looking for when you go on the hunt.  When I went to Milan for the first time I knew I wanted to get a pair of shoes.  Since it’s one of the great fashion capitals, it seemed appropriate.  I still have them years later, and I also have a pair of flats I got in Paris as well.  There’s nothing like walking around in something you bought on the Champs-Élysée when you’re having a bad day.

Treasure doesn’t have to be for you.  Some of my most valued finds are things that I had no intention of keeping for myself.  There is something unimaginably thrilling about finding the perfect gift for something, looking at an obscure object and knowing another person so well that you can see what its value would be in their eyes.  I sent my high school mentor, a Middle Ages buff, a medieval coin found in a small English shop.  I recently discovered a pullover for a friend that will make the most hilarious Christmas present – more I cannot say, she may be reading!  Treasure is not so selfish as to be exclusive to oneself.

Freshman year of university when my family was living in Belgium, I returned to school with boxes of hand crafted and personally selected chocolates for my friends from some of Brussels’ finest chocolatiers.  One of my friends was from Hershey, Pennsylvania and gave me a giant Hershey Kiss in exchange.  On this recent trip to London I found a small booth in Borough Market selling small bottles of truffle oil so I paid   £7 for a small bit of extra deliciousness the next time I feel like impressing someone in the kitchen.  I also came back with several boxes of Twinings tea (unattainable where we live), and a chic blazer.  Treasure doesn’t have to be permanent.

My ideas of treasure have evolved somewhat since my secret box (originally a gift from Morocco from my father and treasure itself) hid the things I valued away – key from the grandfather I’ve barely known my whole life, a bookmark given to me by my mother, a cheap necklace.  Now my tastes run more like my parents and I look for things that remind me of places I’ve been or memories I want to protect.  We’re not and have never really been a picture taking family, we collect our memories in stories instead and hang the reminders of our adventures on walls.  Prints, Balinese baskets artfully arranged, wooden screens from the Orient used as wall decor, bowls purchased in the Levant, a couple of items inherited from ancestors.

But writing this and thinking back, I think I’ve figured out why the concept of treasure was (and continues to be) so important to me.  My parents love interesting things and they’ve passed the love of them on to the four of us.  Our house is crammed to bursting with the Asian antiques my mother gathers that remind her of her childhood in Japan, the rugs my father collected on his many trips to the Middle East, the more colorful the better (there’s a Tibetan prayer rug that’s over a century old that graces our floor and always leaves me half Indian Jones “It belongs in a museum!” baffled, and half shamefully proud that we walk over it everyday).  And I think because things have value to them, not in the vulgar way possessions do to some people, they recognized and shared the value we kids found in much less impressive things.

There is wisdom, and I think greatness, in parents who will look at an excited child’s fistful of rocks and breathe a solemn pronouncement that they are worth just as much as the carpet that used to make up a wall in a Kazakh’s tent.  My mother’s exclamations over bird feathers then are just as excited as ones over antique shop finds now, and my father still smiles the same smile that crinkles his eyes only slightly more these days when one of us opens our hands at him to show our latest token and he says in a slow and important voice, “Ah!  Treasure!”

The value of value is, ultimately I think, one of the most important lessons they’ve taught me.

Friday Links XXVI: Olympics Editions (sort of)

“Go where we may, rest where we will,
Eternal London haunts us still.”
― Thomas Moore

I never got around to telling you about our last two days in London, kittens, partly because one of those days was spent cleaning the house J. lived in and the other (which was a fantastic morning at the Portobello Road Market) I failed utterly to take pictures of.  Between the vintage shops, the paper goods, and the ancient Roman and Egyptian antiquities, I did a lot of fantasy shopping in my head.  J. indulged me with a swing by a favorite bookshop, before we hopped on some buses (certain tube stations being closed for maintenance) and rode around the city for a while.  We had one last swing through Covent Garden to check out the markets and street performers, indulge in J. in a pair of Paul Smith shoes to replace two pairs that took a beating this winter, and grab me a truly fantastic blazer from Zara (I love sale season in Europe!).

The Olympics kick off officially today, so I can at least catch a few glimpses of London skyline here and there on the telly.  In the meantime, here are your links, minions and let me know what fun things you’re doing for the weekend.

Tumblr find of the week: remember those “choose your own adventure” novels?  Well, it wasn’t inevitable that you’d always make wise decisions.

Made any mistakes lately?  I have.  Nothing major, but I tend to beat myself up over them just the same – but it could always be worse.

Oh good grief.  Can’t we all just agree you’ve gone mainstream and violated your own ideals already?

What?  You’re in the Louvre too?!

The real Olympics are kicking off today and I’m missing London so here’s a bit of Brit love for your home.  A phone, a mat, something a bit more personal.

Also, the real Olympics aren’t always glamorous.

And as for Brit labels, we’ve been dropping some serious coin on J. these days, getting his work wardrobe finished up and making sure he’s ready to look the part of a City man.  So, it’s absolutely my turn, right, minions?

Creepy, Victorians.  Just creepy.

It really does take a village.  It shocks me how quickly people forget (or fail to actually learn) that they are usually the product of a lot of other people’s goodwill, success, or work.

Clean energy technology development: pretty nifty!

The weekly sheep returns in smug, cute glory.

London Gems: Cecil Court

“Thank God!  Cecil Court remains Cecil Court…”
– Graham Greene

Literally just around the corner from the Leicester Square tube station is a short street connecting St. Martin’s Lane and Charing Cross Road that’s devoid of traffic and lined on either side with shops that haven’t had a facelift in over a hundred years.  This is Cecil Court and it’s a print lover’s paradise.

Banknotes, antique books, maps, prints from books and magazines, movie and theatre posters, and even a couple of specialty collectors’ shops for models or antiques.  You can find massive Early Modern folios or tiny penny post stamps and all well priced.

The shops themselves, while mostly Victorian in the front, have been around for several centuries.  One owner talked with us a bit about her space – apparently Mozart lived (and had his hair cut) in it as a boy while lodging with a barber who sold tickets for the young prodigy’s concerts out of his shop.  The Foyles brothers had their first book shop here before moving to their current and most recent location in the early 20th century.  T.S. Elliot lived in a flat above the shops in the Court at one point, and William Hogarth’s mother died in one of them as well.

J. originally caught sight of the Court while wandering around and knew that I’d love it, and so insisted we visit when I was in town.  Naturally enough we went back a couple of times looking for treasure,  especially antique maps because I love them and plan on having a wall in our someday house decorated with one from every place we have lived.  Maybe another one with every place we visit.  We didn’t find any that we loved in our price range, but we did come away with treasure, which I’ll tell you about tomorrow.

If you want a small slice of London intelligentsia, unique history, that’s crammed to bursting with interesting things, and a quiet place to rest from the bustle of Leicester Square, stop by Cecil Court.  There are plenty of places to eat around it, it’s incredibly easy to get to, and you may just come away with something priceless.

Cecil Court in a cloud burst. I had a minor heart attack thinking of all those magnificent paper wares in the wet, but clearly the shop keepers are savvy about their work because anything on display outside is wrapped in plastic and perfectly safe. Whew!

* Photo mine.

London Gems: Jermyn Street

“I saw someone peeing in Jermyn Street the other day.  I thought, is this the end of civilization as we know it?  Or is it simply someone peeing in Jermyn Street?”
– Alan Bennett

Halfway between Piccadilly Circus and Green Park tube stations runs a fascinating road.  Jermyn Street is traditionally known as for its mens’ shops, specializing in tailoring, outfitting, and grooming London gentlemen for a couple hundred years now, as well as Britain’s oldest cheese shop, and Beretta, gunmakers since the 16th century.  But I’m in a girly mood, kittens, so I’m going to tell you a couple of my girliest indulgence to be found along this London road.

Fortnum and Mason started as an upscale Enlightenment grocery store and went on supplying basic home goods and luxuries to the present day.  Queen Victoria ordered food from it, it supplied troops during the Napoleonic wars, and claims the honor of being the first place in Britain to stock canned beans.  Today its ground floor stocks gourmet teas, coffees, biscuits, liquors, candies, and other taste sensations, all of which make excellent presents (I bought some unusual jams for the girls) for decent prices.  The upper floors, though are the real treats, stocking everything from nice kitchenware and home goods, china and hampers, ladies cosmetics, children’s’ traditional toys, and a truly fantastic men’s shop – which may have given J. some fearful ideas for future birthdays and anniversaries.  The Piccadilly store also has a lovely tea shop that is a great place to go for a treat, as well as four other restaurants to feed you at any time of day.

Floris is a perfumery that has been at this address since the 18th century.  Mary Shelley, Beau Brummell,Winston Churchill, and James Bond (the fictional character, he wore No 89) have all been customers and the shop preserves a lot of old fashioned shopping customs.  For example, it used to be considered vulgar to hand money to customers so to this day if you get change, a shop attendant will pass it to you on a velvet pad.  This place is, understandably, more expensive but worth it if you want a lovely present, or just want to treat yourself.  Many of their concoctions are centuries old, I bought my little sister her birthday present here, a fragrance originally crafted for Queen Victoria on the occasion of her marriage, and was re-released this year in honor of Elizabeth II’s jubilee.  There’s also a men’s fragrance originally developed for a Russian count that’s still sold today!  If you’re really up to dropping some cash, you can have a custom scent created for you – which, I’m not going to lie, I’d love to do some day.

So, if you’re in the mood for a touch of high end shopping, check out Jermyn Street, kittens.

London’s Hidden Gems: Cheese

“Cheese – milk’s leap towards immortality.”
– Clifton Paul Fadiman

One of the places I showed J. was Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden, a hidden street only a short walk from his usual stomping ground but that he’d never heard of.  London is stuffed with places like this, it’s probably why I love it so much.  Neal’s Yard used to be just an old, unused area behind some buildings on Neal Street and Monmouth Street.  In the 1970’s Nicholas Saunders opened a series of businesses that soon attracted other shops and venues.  Today you can find homeopathic snuggled up alongside major brands, boutiques and pop up shops, and tons of character in every last one of them.

Walking into the yard proper is fun because the brick walls and windows are all painted bright colors, there are quirky shops specializing in everything from astrology to frozen yogurt, and you get the idea that you’ve walked into a big, confetti colored secret.  J. took a look around and declared, “You lead me into wardrobes,” which may be one of the cutest compliments ever uttered, as far as I’m concerned.

The point of our visit was that I wanted to glance through the Neal’s Yard Dairy, one of the best cheese shops in London and one of the places that has such a fun ambiance that you want to kidnap tourists from the normal places they’re herded into and show them an off-the-beaten-path good time.

Again, like most shops, it’s tiny but crammed to the brim with good stuff.  There are massive rounds of cheese stored along every wall, and a staff eager to slice off samples of their wares.

J. and I tried a few samples for the fun of it.  If ever you have sinus problems, let me recommend the Stinking Bishop – it’s about as potent as wasabi!

Each cheese is labeled by name, and more uniquely, the farm it was made at.  No processed stuff here, if you please!  This is an artisan’s shop, stocked by independent and family farms from all over Europe.  We got half a round of Tunworth, a Hampshire soft cheese which is (a staff member informed me) often referred to as an English Camembert.  It is delicious with gala apples.

It’s a fun treat place if you’re throwing a party and need a cheese platter, if you’re in the mood to experiment with gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, or if you just want to snag something to treat yourself with an alternate to sugar.

Neal’s Yard, minions.  Check it out.

*All photos mine.